Thursday, May 3, 2007

My Role Model


About two months ago, Lara was at our house for dinner. I was cooking, she was holding my two-year old daughter. She always said that she didn’t get along with kids, but she and Sofia obviously had an understanding. Common love of mischief no doubt.

For the first time I understood what people mean when they say "role model." Right here was a person who embodied all the things I wish for my daughter’s future. Strong. Smart. Caring. Self-confident. Dedicated. Determined. Above all, independent.

I’m tempted to say "fearless," but that wouldn’t give her enough credit. More than anyone I know, she simply refused to let her life be defined by what she was afraid of. She rebelled against it, grabbed it by the throat. If you saw her scared, you could guess what her next obsession would be.



We had planned a trip to Mt. Kennedy this spring. The reasons why I eventually cancelled out seem trivial now. I knew they were trivial at the time. That wasn’t enough to jog me out of the inertia of my life. Most of us don’t need other people to chain us down, we do it ourselves and call it responsibility, obligation, habit. Somehow, Lara was immune to this. She lived her life by the dictate "why NOT do it?" Why not travel to China? Why not ditch work for a month to climb in the desert? Why not hitchhike across Alaska? Why not race this Lance Armstrong wannabe across town on my mountain bike?

Of all the things I admired about Lara, this stays with me. She never let fear of upsetting a comfortable rhythm stop her from pursuing her dreams, all of them, all at the same time. She was the freest person I’ve ever known.

She was my role model too.

Forrest Murphy

From Brendan Cusick

Buddha said "Be the light you wish to see in the world"

No one shone quite so bright as Lara. A loss of energy from this earth occurred with her passing. My first meeting with her was after an emotional good bye she and Chad had at KIA (Kahiltna International Airport, the snow-bound airstrip on the Kahiltna Glacier) on his way up for a speed record on Big Mac (Mt. McKinley). We all flew to Talkeetna and with a posse of folks to tear up the West Rib and Fairview for a good night of partying. The following morning I learned of Lara's love of eggs, eggs, eggs. My climbing partner, Robert, Lara, and I spent the day wondering around, chomping for info on Chad's ascent and just being happy climbers in the streets of Talkeetna.

Two months later I visited Lara in Seattle on my way to Bolivia and got the full tour of sushi, red wine, and her romping grounds all through the wind sheild of the old Volvo. Her love of life, big smile and enthusiasm for climbing and life kept me pumped for two months of guiding in Bolivia.

When I returned from South America she and Chad opened their door to a tired and strung out climber and I thank them for that. I left them a gift from Bolivia that though it had broken in transit was but a small offering to Lara's kindness and whole hearted energy that has infected all of us.

To Chad I send compassion.
To Lara you're with us always.

Brendan Cusick

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

Memorial Service: Photo Submission

CALL FOR IMAGES
Submission Deadline is this Friday evening.

At the memorial after Saturday's funeral we will run a digital slide show. We are asking for a contribution of images of Lara..

Digital Submission Specs (for the techie):
1024x768 maximum dimensions; 72ppi; sRGB; Adjust hi/low values in Curves at 6/245; Unsharp Mask at 120%, .5 Radius, 2 Threshold; save as JPG with embedded sRGB profile, Quality 11

Digital Submission Specs (non techie):
send us the file in its original state.

Analog (slides or prints) Submission Specs:
If you are unable to convert the images to digital yourself, please call Tim at 206.409.3069 to drop these off for scanning.

If you have time, please caption your images with "who, what, where, when, why" as there is a chance we will have time to include this in the production. But getting the images submitted should be the priority.

EMAIL TO:
For less than 4mb file email to Tim: photo(at)timmatsui.com
For greater than 4mb file email to Andreas: dakobed(at)hotmail.com

**please send an email with no attachments to confirm image arrival

Thanks,
tim matsui

Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant

A fund has been established in Lara's honor with the American Alpine Club. In lieu of flowers at her funeral, Chad would appreciate donations to the Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant in honor of Lara's commitment to preserving natural wild spaces.

Please contribute your tax deductible donation in one of the following ways:
- To donate by credit card, click on the "One Time Gift" link on the AAC website http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/page/8. Please be sure to type "Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant" into the "Comments" section.
- To donate by check please send to this address. Please be sure to write "Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant" on the check:
The American Alpine Club
710 10th St Suite 1
Golden, CO 80401

In addition the AAC has this information on its website at the bottom of this page:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/page/21
The news release is here: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/news.php#149

Please forward this to EVERYONE who would be interested so we have the opportunity to make this a lasting legacy.

Memorial Service, Saturday May 5th

Please pass this information along to anyone who knew Lara... Everyone is invited.

Direct Link: http://rememberlara.blogspot.com/2007/05/memorial-service-saturday-may-5th.html

Link: Call for Photos for Memorial Service

FUNERAL INFORMATION:
The funeral will be held Saturday May 5th at the Latvian Evangelical Lutheran Church. The viewing will be from 12-1PM and the ceremony will be from 1-2PM. There will be memory boards to display pictures of Lara. Please bring up to 3 pictures; if they are originals please take them with you after the service.

Following the ceremony there will be a gathering at the Bitter Lake Community Center from 2-5PM. This will be a potluck gathering so please bring food to share. (No alchohol is allowed at the Community Center.)

Location information is below:
Latvian Evangelical Lutheran Church
11710 3rd Ave NE
You approach it from 5th Ave NE which is immediately east of I-5.
[Map]


Bitter Lake Community Center
13035 Linden Ave N
Seattle, Washington 98133
[Map]


In lieu of flowers, Chad has asked you donate to the Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Fund

another side

I never watched Lara dance up a rock wall, or weave a magic line through a chaotic labyrinth of ice, as so many of you have. On a good day I could stay with her for about 3 minutes in the mountains, either ascending or descending. But I have seen that same incredible blend of grace and intensity thread a coherent path through a jumble of points, pixels, and polygons. That virtual world of science from which she drew her daily bread that fueled so many excursions into the real world of sky, rock, and the infinite. She was the heart and soul of the most creative work I do, and our symbiosis is not replaceable.

Two weeks ago, in Tucson, with a smile that may have bordered on conceit -- it was really pride in my colleague -- I heard the world's premier landscape ecologist extol the elegance and creativity of Lara's recent research in fire history. They were to spend two hours together the next day, as equals in the scientific stratosphere. That same night, as people piled into my car for a poorly mapped route to a remote hacienda, Lara deferentially opened the back door. "Wait -- you have to ride shottie, so you can navigate." Who else would you want to find the path for you, whether on dusty rural roads or routes far more delicate and hazardous?

A week later, as Lara was flying into Ruth Gorge, another world-renowned scientist (who is about 4'11", about half of it gray matter), stood by Lara's poster in Vienna, first puzzled and then enlightened. "Is she a reader (he's British) at your college?" "Could be anything she wants", replied the poster's second author. Lara has told me more than once that her 40s would be her real academic decade.

Lara never had a limit on generosity, whether of the spirit, the larder, or the dollar. On daily coffee trips to her beloved Peet's, she would often take a couple dollars from me to buy hot cocoa. It was only by chance that I discovered, a month into this practice, that I had been about a dollar short each time. "Wait -- you're not supposed to be bankrolling me." She would have never said a thing. The same Lara sent me a text message at 10 PM one October night in Yosemite Valley, knowing I'd never sleep until I knew she was off the treacherous nighttime descent from Sentinel Rock.

Monday mornings at the lab we traded weekend stories. After a typical Lara weekend -- say, driving 1200 miles round trip sandwiched around several savage ascents in the Canadian Rockies -- she would listen with genuine interest to whatever petite accomplishment I might have to report. Now I reach out mentally to all those places we both were, or she was and I gazed at from below, and see her everywhere: the fractal maze of the Shuksan Arm, or as I ponder timidly the X-chutes dropping off Sam's Ridge; everywhere the sky is blue, the rock solid, or the powder deep.

I can't believe you're gone LB. You are orders of magnitude larger than life, and always will be. And I can't stop weeping.

Adios mi hermanita, con todo mi afecto

Don McKenzie

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Vivid beauty

Its impossibly hard for me to write about Lara, in the past, for to do so demands I accept that she is gone … and I’m not there yet. I don’t ever want to get there. She was just so damn amazing. Reading everyone’s inspired words brings me to tears, then laughter and always more tears. Please keep writing.

Throughout this past week, I endlessly hear her sassy wit, her tenacious brilliance and her generous warm voice. My mind wanders and there she is, smiling and laughing and dancing up some rock face. I miss her tremendously and love her like a sister, a big sister, for she was always there for me … unconditionally. Lara was always giving me incredible advice even when I had made some stupid mistake, ever believing in me to do something far greater than what I thought possible, ever inspiring me to run or climb or adventure harder and longer than I had ever done, and ultimately, ever giving me countless reasons to look up to her. My life was richer because I knew Lara and I loved meeting up with her as soon as I came home, to hear what she was up to and to process. Perhaps what I will miss the most is our reunions when we would finally get to go to the hills, head out on a run, enjoy a cup of coffee and always, have that long talk. Looking back, I can mark every notable event in my life in this way … processing with Lara.

There are a million moments with Lara I savor. I still remember the first night I met Lara and how shortly thereafter, in Yosemite, she taught me how to sneak a ‘free shower’ and loaned me her ‘girl kit’. This was an epiphany for me – that you could climb hard with the boys (her better than most) and still shine as a sexy, feminine, and compassionate woman. In this Lara was the master. She tried endlessly to mentor me in this – though I was never a good student. Once, after a fantastic and at times hilarious trip guiding together (imagine for a moment the classic bumbly client and lara chain-smoking nightly to calm her nerves), she confiscated our tips and took me to a proper salon downtown Seattle to ‘do something about my hair’. Many of my clothes are still Lara hand me downs, which I proudly wear in spite of the holes that would drive her crazy.

While climbing in the Himalaya many years ago, Lara and I spent days climbing a beautiful mountain together fantasizing about chocolate cake with chocolate frosting. You see, there had been a bakery in Namche on the way in, but we had both been too sick to even contemplate a piece. A month later, exhilarated from a beautiful big climb, and a bit skinnier from a forced altitude diet we descended in search of the famed bakery. Alas, there was no cake to be found in Namche. Undeterred, for Lara embraced every challenge with such exuberance and cunning, we hiked the next day with our mission to Lukla. Immediately after arriving, Lara and I discovered but two pieces in the entire town. This was only a problem because as all her dear friends know, Lara had this infectious way about her. Whatever she sought she never failed to inspire everyone else to want too. So, for days our entire team had been salivating over those two pieces of chocolate cake we had just secretly devoured. Lara was also the most thoughtful and considerate person I know and, unlike most of us – she would always follow through. So, with her sassy smile, savvy negotiating skills and a bazillion rupees she got the bakery to bake our team a double chocolate cake with frosting and deliver it to us later that night. It was a hit and we washed that cake down with many Nepali beverages, thus passing an unforgettable night!

A few times, Lara, Merridy, Tracy and I would rally a girl’s weekend. These were always such fun and I will always remember the last one. The three ladies drove north to meet me listening to happening tunes and reading ‘girlie’ magazines they’d picked up on their way out of town. At the lakeside hut we drank, gossiped and laughed all night, but then, true to form, Lara awakened us early to a truly amazing cup of coffee and a plan. The next twelve hours would invariably be spent chasing her (and Merridy) on the slopes. Tracy and my only respite would be when the two speed racers would need a coffee refuel. Lara had a fantastic tele style. Imagine a cross between a dive-bomber and a slolem racer. She would point her skis down with her helmeted head leading the way as she carved flawless tight turns. The stares from the boys were always priceless. Gawk as they would though, Chad had her heart.

The tragic night Chad was informed of the accident, I was unable to sleep. Instead I remembered the many times I shared with them as a couple. Those happy moments when I saw both Chad and Lara fall in love and the many bright moments in the subsequent years as they grew their lives together. My favorite memory of them remains seeing the two of them up to delightful mischievousness, holding hands and skipping across a Mendozan plaza...

This is how I will always remember Lara … smiling radiantly and filling that plaza with her beauty, her compassion and her brilliance. She inspired all who loved her profoundly or even those who just glimpsed her briefly, to live more deeply.

Two weeks before Mt. Wake I jotted this quote from a book I was reading that now sadly speaks of Lara: “To a life extraordinary, to a life less ordinary, to a life lived beautifully and if by chance that short, vivid.” I miss Lara fiercely and I thank her for touching my life so beautifully and so vividly.

Cecelia Mortenson